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RESEARCH & EVIDENCE

We built HALENE on published, peer-reviewed research into bakuchiol as a retinol alternative. This page holds the studies we rely on: what each one tested, what it found, and what it does not show. They are independent studies of the ingredient, not clinical trials of our finished products.

Bakuchiol amber oil droplet on bone stone with skeletal structure

Bakuchiol matched retinol on wrinkles and pigmentation

Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019

What was tested. 44 people with facial photoaging, randomized and double-blind, over 12 weeks. One group used 0.5% bakuchiol twice a day. The other used 0.5% retinol once a day.

What it found. Both groups had significant reductions in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between them. The retinol group reported more scaling and stinging.

What it does not mean. The study used a 0.5% bakuchiol cream, not HALENE. No. 01 uses 1%. The result belongs to the ingredient.

Dried babchi seeds in a ceramic dish on cream linen

Bakuchiol works through many of the same pathways as retinol

Chaudhuri and Bojanowski, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014

What was tested. Gene-expression profiling of bakuchiol and retinol in a full-thickness skin model, with collagen measurements in human dermal fibroblasts, followed by a 12-week clinical evaluation with twice-daily use.

What it found. Bakuchiol, with no structural resemblance to retinoids, regulated many of the same genes as retinol and increased collagen types I, III and IV in the lab. After 12 weeks the researchers recorded improvement in lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity and firmness.

What it does not mean. Lab results describe how an ingredient works, not what a product will do on a face. We cite this paper for mechanism, not as a promise.

Fresh babchi sprig with purple flower head on cream linen

Well tolerated on sensitive skin

Draelos et al., Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2020

What was tested. 60 women aged 40 to 65 with sensitive skin used a bakuchiol cleanser and moisturizer for 4 weeks. A third had eczema, a third rosacea, a third cosmetic intolerance.

What it found. The products were well tolerated. Measured skin moisture rose 16%, and dermatologist grading recorded improvement in smoothness, clarity and overall appearance.

What it does not mean. Four weeks, one moisturizer, one panel. It speaks to tolerance on reactive skin, not to long-term results.

The 2019 head-to-head at a glance

Dhaliwal et al., 2019. 44 people, 12 weeks, randomized and double-blind.
Scroll left to right  Bakuchiol 0.5% Retinol 0.5%
Reduced wrinkle surface area at 12 weeks
Reduced hyperpigmentation at 12 weeks
Difference between the two
Not statistically significant
Not statistically significant
Scaling and stinging reported
Less
More
Application in the study
Twice a day
Once a day
Is a retinoid

From the papers, verbatim

  • Bakuchiol and retinol both significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no significant difference between them. The retinol group reported more scaling and stinging.
    Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019.
  • Despite no structural resemblance to retinoids, bakuchiol regulates many of the same skin pathways and upregulates collagen types I, III and IV.
    Chaudhuri and Bojanowski, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014
  • In 60 women with sensitive skin, including eczema, rosacea and cosmetic intolerance, a bakuchiol moisturizer was well tolerated and increased measured skin moisture by 16%.
    Draelos et al., Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2020

What we do not claim

That HALENE products were clinically tested. They were not. The studies are of the ingredient.

That there is no adjustment period. Bakuchiol is not a retinoid, so there is no retinoid adjustment period. That is a definition, not a study result.

That it layers with acids or vitamin C. Nothing we cite tested that.

That it is stable in light. It is often described that way. We will cite it when we have the paper in hand.

That you will see a change in two weeks. The head-to-head measured at 12.

The two supporting actives

Why they are in No. 01. No study claims are made for them on this page.
  • Niacinamide milky swirl on bone stone with skeletal structure

    Niacinamide, 4%

    Vitamin B3, in the form skin can use. Included to support the skin barrier and the look of even tone.

  • Beta glucan clear gel on bone stone with repeat unit structure

    Beta-glucan, 0.5%

    A sugar chain from oats and yeast. Included to hold water at the surface and keep the serum comfortable on reactive skin.

The research is the reason we exist

Our Why tells the rest of the story: what we went looking for, what we refused, and how the formula was made. Read Our Why.

Questions about the research